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A/W 2011- Blanc de Chine

Friday, February 11th, 2011
Blanc de Chine Boutique, Fifth Avenue

The Fifth Avenue retail mainstay consistently delivers very wearable interpretations of traditionally Asian silhouettes & does so in a way that keeps their loyal fan bases returning for a piece or two season after season. Fall 2011 is no different & during their show in the upper floor of their beautiful boutique, they drove this point home with
finesse.

Beautifully draped versions of traditional Qi Pao, which seems like an oxymoron, given that this garment is traditionally a body fitting shift like silhouette, are consistently the standouts from this team & were so once again today. New & fresh looking were the versions of vests that were loosely draped around the body to evoke the feeling of a paired away kimono. These pieces looked great, especially when trimmed in crimson red beaded fringe. Colors never really strayed too far from the dark end of the palette with black & navy dominating, but the few times when a gray, brown or purple appeared, it was with ease.

New fabrication combinations were also used & the most successful introduction was that of a silk & leather combo that truly made the observer take a second look, as the textures were nearly indiscernible. Sequined silks were also used & at times were over printed, but the effect seemed forced & had what I believe to be an unintended reference to the 70′s.

Blanc de Chine also showed menswear in nearly all suit & formal silhouettes. While there were plenty of plays on collar detail, sleeve details like inverted pleats & stitched panels, the pieces were essentially all takes on tunics, which felt on the whole uninspired & in the end wholly forgettable. Given the incredible design ammo obviously in this house’s arsenal, it seems sad that they seem to approach Men’s as an afterthought. No worries, there was plenty here to keep us coming back & undoubtedly so will their legions of fans.

-Scott French

Designer website: www.blancdechine.com

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