un moment avec Lee
Paris, France
Reminding us that we can be inspired by the every day, Lutz Huelle turned images of a construction site he passed daily this summer into a chic and feminine story of pieces coming together. A clever reinterpretation of the building process and stages of completion led to some great silhouettes and a strong foundation for his signature ability to reassemble the parts.
Construction, as we use it in fashion, doesn’t necessarily evoke images of scaffolding and pouring concrete. Nor did associating the construction of his collection with a building site result in a stiff or rigid collection. Instead, elements like knife pleats that do stiffen soft silks were left loose to fall uncontrolled around the shape of the body. Like the jazz music that was playing, they had a dynamic life of their own.
Jeans that were died with a resulting distressed effect could have been inspired by the workers, but Lutz’s version is made just right for the woman of spring 2012. Bright fuscia dripped out from under layers of transparent black and navy like wet paint. The same idea as a print had white paint dripping across the navy bodies of the dresses. With all these liquid inferences, a balancing structure came in the jackets, which were themselves lightened up by eliminating the sleeves except for a small cap that covered just the top of the arm. This idea of cut outs ran through the collection even in the silk dresses, with exposed shoulders and strategically placed slashes around the body so that the fabric fell this way or that with a kind of chic summer carelessness.
The variety of textures and silhouettes in the easy, but special dresses left a lot of women anxious to shop. On the way out, plenty of summer dress clad women could be heard saying ‘I quite liked it,’ probably imaging what shoes they would wear next spring in their new piece of Lutz.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.LutzParis.com
