The air that Ralph Rucci breathes is of a rarified type indeed. The level of fashion within which he creates is one so precious, so devoid of trend & of such a level of aesthetic loft that mere mortals find themselves nearly lightheaded in the presence of his creations, & I’m not overly exaggerating. The Chado Ralph Rucci collection for Resort 2013 (& every collection Mr. Rucci has ever designed for that matter) sets the bar so high for others that there truly is no way he can be compared to any other on these shores… in reality, the American fashion scene can be summed up as “there’s Ralph Rucci at the top, & then there’s everybody else much further down the ladder”.
As I entered the studio & showroom for my Resort 2013 preview appointment, I was greeted by Mr. Rucci sitting with an editor of note form one of the “Fashion Bibles” found on every fashionable coffee table in America. While the hushed tones of their conversation lent a background soundtrack, a gazelle-like model was posing for a photographer wearing a Citron Yellow skirt under a Cream silk blouse. The skirt had a raised waistband in the front while the back swept lower to expose the matching Citron Yellow spaghetti cording that was wrapped over the waistband several times to create just enough additional interest to an already stunning piece. Mr. Rucci & his guest of honor continued to discuss his collection, debating over precisely which look from the racks would quintessentially define Resort 2013 for her magazine’s readers, while I was greeted by the Sales Director of the Chado collection who took me through the collection piece by magnificent piece.
There were Rucci signatures all over the collection, but there were also some very exciting new proportions at play. The opening rack held an assortment of fabrications from Ultra Suede to real Chamois & Silk Pongee to Fibranne in brilliantly dyed tones from Rucci signature Taupe, Cream & Black to the above mentioned color of the season, an electric bright Citron Yellow. The play on proportion was immediately evident in the asymmetrically hemmed tunics & blocked extreme A-line dresses or the two versions of Anoraks that opened & closed the collection, the former in a Red casual fabrication & the later in a Black micro-sequin mesh.
As the middle of the collection unfolded, the true Chado detailing shone bright. The trademark piecework, the mesh channels between some of the pieced pieces added just enough sex appeal to be provocatively tasteful. But when the Matte Jersey dresses were presented, the backbone of the season was immediately identified. A Hot Pinkish Purple short dress with a center front gathered sash detail & a full length version in Black will undoubtedly be in every retailer’s order as these were two of the best dresses in all of fashion this season.
The collection closed with elegant takes on evening, some of which were surprisingly young in feel. The giant striped Black & Cream full length cocktail skirt worn under a Black Matte Jersey T-shirt that had sheer inserts down the back as well as a Cream Caviar beaded lace mesh full length slip gown under a matching full length over coat were the most memorable looks in an assortment that had so many.
The Chado Ralph Rucci is one of America’s true creative treasures & Resort 2013 did nothing to change this deserved reputation. In fact, it serves to allow me to make said statement even more assertively. I’m already looking forward to next season!
-Scott French
Designer website: www.chadoralphrucci.net
What we’ve said: Spring 2012
What we’ve said: Spring 2011
What we’ve said: Spring 2010
