For a collection that works leather like a favorite old chair, or steps that have been walked for centuries forming grooves from the infinite feet, Isamu Katayana has a vision of what time and wear might do to a garment and adds a sense of imagines history to the piece. Entitled “Sadhual,” his Summer 2013 seemed like an urban reflection of the Sadhu lifestyle, Indian holy men who dedicate their lives to spiritual enlightenment. With an affinity for nomadic lifestyles but an outlet to the urban settings of Japan and internationally, Katayana has a way of taking deeply cultural references and applying them to his pared down street wear.
Often dusting their skin in white powder or paint, Katayana used the same effect on a dusty white and grey suit, and at the hem of a jacket and pants that looked dusted in powder from the hem up. In the only pop of color, a burgundy stripe ran in a band at the hip level and on the cuffs of a blazer. Even the setting, draperies hanging from the ceiling scattered with raw, low hanging light bulbs, was neutral and discrete. A kind of silent power in his clothes, the unassuming designer sticks to a concise collection that evolves slowly within its own realm. Much like the Sadhu who separate themselves from the drives of society, Katayana remains at his own pace outside of fashion’s fickle nature.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.callingbacklash.com
What we’ve said: Fall 12-13 Menswear