Diamond patterns and muted jewel tones shook up the norm from Jan Taminiau, his Fall 2013 Couture collection inspired by the colorful cultures of Africa and Uzbekistan. Fusing the two together, unexpected graphic patterns contrasted the off white base tone of the collection. Embracing the idea of color, Taminiau applied small increments like green pompoms, and also more dramatic statements with tulle collars, and giant hoods that the models removed for the cameras so they hung, bouncing, over their backs.
The ruffles and diamond patterns, in ultimate contrast from linear to organic, brought together traditional ethnic crafts and the techniques of haute couture. The controlled frenzy of tulle sculpted into hoods and into full dresses whose volume was shaved in under the bust or at the waist to accentuate the form underneath while altering the overall outline of the block color form. In contrast, the diamond patterned velvet, beading and Ikat embroidery helped define the body trough changes in scale and directionality. Combining the two ends of the spectrum in an off white gown with fuller tulle on the bottom, shaved down into diamond shapes moving up the body to a final moment of color across the strong square shoulder.
The sky-high heels that Taminiau is notorious for further exaggerated the verticality of the figure and allowed him to get away with the experimental silhouettes of the tulle. The variety of silhouettes, especially the champagne colored lace body suits and shorter dresses that showed off lots of leg, gave relief to the visual weight of the floor length gowns. It truly was a poetic clash, with such bold graphic statements and dramatic forms of color balancing each other in daring harmony. From the most elegant to the most dramatic, Taminiau controls his vision with clear direction, and this season he arrived at the destination with great success.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer: Jan Taminiau
Designer website: www.jantaminiau.com
What we’ve said: Fall 2012 Haute Couture