For their 10th anniversary, celebrating 20 seasons on the runway, On Aura Tout vu held a regal procession in the Palais Royale, name appropriate for the theme Somewhere Else Kingdom. The first look set the bar high, with a spectacular headdress standing tall and looking especially beautiful against the green leaves from rows of trees that shaded the runway. Black, white and red, strong and clear, the designers opted for variations on texture within the monotone looks. There was such excitement in each piece, each one made for a tough, glammed-out queen with some brief moments of pretty within the rock and roll.
Shapes emulating queenly costumes of over the eras drew focus especially to the shoulders, structured like joints in armor, and the waist line, accentuated with wide leather belts with oversized decorative medallions. A serious rock and roll edge was infused with the use of leather and gold studs, and a body consciousness that was overtly sexy. One bright red ostrich feather dress was mixed with longer coq feathers adding solidity to the softness that set a frame for the face. Highlighting the face was an important element, and reoccurred in high fur collars and the headdresses with strands of chain and pearls hanging down below the chin.
The densely embroidered crests and the headdresses in some cases included action figures or Barbies covered in crystals as the centerpiece. One model wore an eye patch that was a fully sculpted skull, also glittering from every bit of its surface. Another amazing piece of eyewear were the glasses whose lenses protruded in the shape of crowns. The decadence of royalty of the past was no match for the versions imagined on the on aura tout vu runway. From head to toe: rhinestones, leather straps and gold studs and spikes came together to transport us to the designer’s fantasy kingdom.
The show coming to a close, a pair of centaurs emerged from the backstage tent, escorting the queen down the long path. Reaching the end, they turned off towards the sides and escaped into the park. This moment of whimsy came after a seriously executed collection that deserved the celebratory parade dancing down the aisle after the final run through. We might think we’ve seen everything, as the name of the label suggests, but on aura tout vu proves that working every season with their imagination and anything is possible approach. Let’s keep coming back to be surprised and amazed for 20 more seasons, and on.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.onauratoutvu.com
What we’ve said: Haute Couture Fall 2013