Yulia Yanina, for Fall/Winter 2012/13, took images and techniques of Russian tradition and folklore, and refined them with her aesthetic eye for Haute Couture. In very literal patterns of naïf appliqué, floral compositions decorated the hems of full skirts with layers of petticoat holding the shape. Other traditional details came in the form of trim on white cotton blouses, and split collars the folded away from the center in the back as well as the front, thick satin headbands over traditional braided hairdos.
Fringe, glossy and long, hung down from open cape sleeves in black with cut outs in a winding vine pattern, and from the split opening in the underarm of a velvet jacket. Another black velvet gown had patches of blue floral needlepoint embroidery appliquéd on the bust and shoulders with the canvas edges still visible, framing the needlework against the black dress. A beautiful series of tulle gowns, full skirts and fitted waists, were in bright colors of traditional Russian costume. The dozens of tiny buttons down the back were left undone except for a single button at the top. Grey tulle with pink velvet appliqué, silver tulle with gold lace, and a bright red, glittering tulle dress all had distinct personalities.
A true homage to her heritage Yanina seemed to truly enjoy embracing the design history of her country. In this way, the “lalala” style music and smiling, dreamlike state of the models recalled a place where everything was simple and good. It is no wonder she enjoyed herself, channeling that inspiration over the course of the collection. And despite the dated feeling of some of the heavier velvet pieces, the collection was overall an original and refreshing look at the richness of Russian imagery and folklore.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.YaninaFashion.com