Japanese film noir and the oversized proportions of post war menswear were the equation for success at Juun J’s Summer 2013 show. Entitled DU_AL, the designer challenged the functionality of garments in their supposed roles by re-exploring layers, doubling up on fabric combinations, and maximizing the volume versus slim contrast as a visual tool to accentuate the man’s body.
Lots of volume, like the bodies of the mobsters, puffed up sleeves gave the impression of pumped up muscles and chests. Wide at the joints, and then tapered at the wrist or ankle, the pants and sleeves finished the silhouette with control and refinement. The excessive volume gave the opportunity to layer the outerwear. The fabrications were well chosen and, even doubled up, the looks felt light and breezy. Combining fabrics in the longer pieces to give dimension with a sheer layer underneath a more functional water-resistant layer over the shoulders and sleeves.
A more modern twist in the puffy sweatshirt and over-sized tee with hot pressed design molded into the surface, like spikes and rhinestones and studs. And style of flat brimmed baseball hats worn high on the models’ heads, further explored with bombers and blazers that had 3-D patch letters embroidered on the backs, like a team or club jacket. And one bright striped trench coat popped out from the collection like one Technicolor garment in a black and white film.
Juun J handled the concept of duality as someone who knew both sides of each issue, and where the harmony between them existed. To avoid making the garments conceptual, it was the styling that achieved balance within conflict. But most importantly, it was clear that he was searching for a way to exploit the strong qualities of the body. A very successful rendition of an ultramasculine, interpreted in a manly way without being macho.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.juunj.com
What we’ve said: 2012 Men’s Paris Collection