Dark, curved, broken and divided proportions, Amaya Arzuaga showed her Fall 2012 collection in the beautiful, and symbiotically ornate Spanish embassy. Taking inspiration from Sonia Delaunay’s paintings and textile designs, Arzuaga fragmented the garments with cords of piping in irregular shapes across the heavy mohair fabric and pieced into wool cocoon coat and shifts. Orphism, the artistic movement associated with the work of Robert Delaunay, Sonia’s husband, was translated in principle through the overlapping forms and vibrant colors. Originating from cubism, it was easy to see how the fragmented and curving shapes might be transferred from lines on a 2D canvas.
In some places the tucking and seaming appeared a bit forces into place, while in others, like, the multicolored paneled sweater, seemed more naturally integrated. The sculpted structured silhouettes left the body mostly covered up, with high necklines and modest hems. But several instances showed the open back, with a panel draping open and away leaving the sides disconnected and joining at the shoulder. There was quite a bit of interest in the backs of the garments, like the asymmetrical segmented panels reaching the center back at varying levels along the vertical seam. While the collection was somewhat heavy visually, there was a harmony in the overall composition. And one cannot help but be appreciative of Arzuaga’s accurate translation of Orphism into the realm of ready to wear.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.amayaarzuaga.com
Photos: Shoji Fujii