Arnys is not a show where the fashion parade marches outside for the blogger’s cameras. It is quite a different crowd that gathers for the classic Follow the most dapper man on the street and chances are he’ll end up here. In the beautiful foyer of the Portuguese Embassy, the models paraded through the various rooms of the ground floor past the winding staircase and gilded mirrors. The music was rather suspenseful, like the soundtrack of an Alfred Hitchcock movie. And the clothes silhouettes and proportions recalled the heroes, like Jimmy Stewart and Cary Grant, in their made to measure studio wardrobes. Arnys functions under the same mentality of exactitude. Knowing that to the eye, and to the wearer, the quality of a suit relies solely on it’s fit.
Arnys has a proud heritage of customization. From made to measure to ready to wear it seems that there must be some compromise involved. It is not so at Arnys. The impeccable tailoring and highest quality fabrics are easily discernable. This truly is a luxury collection in the most classical sense. There is no black here, but rather traditional textiles that blend with distinction. An Arnys man could, and often does, wear a different color sock, shoe, tie, shirt, and handkerchief and still look like a composition inspired by a work of art. This season was based on a mustardy palette, with greens, reds and blues complimenting and contrasting the base note of spicy browns and yellow. A couple of leather jackets, and even leather pants, as have been seen everywhere this season, felt like a push towards a more modern product. And while they fit into the pared down aesthetic of the clean and tailored man, these moments made clear is that Arnys is a collection that doesn’t need modernizing, as it is contemporary in its timelessness.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.arnys.fr
Designers: Jean & Michel Grimbert
What we’ve said: Men’s 2012