Within the underlying meditative theme of Azru Kaprol’s Fall 2012 collection, her focus was on the Bauhaus and the aesthetics of modernism. This meant architectural lines and hard-edged military silhouettes, although fabricated in luxurious silks and furs. Jackets curving high over the hips and hanging back down to the front and back, had wide bands in contrast colors or lined in feathers fanning out over the hip, the wrist brushing up against them as the models arms swung back and forth. Kaprol molded extensions over the hips and extensions from the bust that created, seen from the front, a flat surface on the chest. It added interest to the silhouette from other angles, seen from the side it was like you could peel back the top layer to reveal something underneath, hidden and protected.
Leather harnesses, seen left and right the season in Paris, added a gridded regularity to over transparent layers with diagonal gold stripes or more dramatically over fur coats marbled with shaven lines running like veins over the surface of the fur. Criss-crossed strands of glittering trim were also layered over the fur, like seeing the garment through a dew covered spider web. Super finely pleated silk fanned out from a gathered center with the edges secured into geometric shapes over the hip or out from the bust. One vest was entirely paneled with this technique, in a sportier approach, and a bright red dress with the pleats elongated over the bust offered an extra oomph when she turned to reveal the exposed back lined with matching bright red feathers softening the structured line.
In color, silhouette, and technique, these were strong feminine characters. In the final line up, the models retreated through the linear installation stretching across the runway passage as if they had just won the battle, and were off for some well-deserved beauty sleep.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.arzukaprol.net