Recent CFDA Designer Incubator “graduate” Bibhu Mohapatra looked to the runway for the second time in his short but illustrious career for Spring 2013 & sent out a quiet, but quintessentially “Bibhu” collection in the process. Apparently Mr. Mohapatra has also been spending time looking through a kaleidoscope as of late as well, since most of his pieces involved some degree of radial symmetry & fractured planes of color that were part cubist, part stained glass & part origami that somehow had the overall effect of a sort of modern Rohrshack ink blot study. Digitally printed on silk, embroidered as allover patterns, or achieved via voile fabrics being folded back on themselves to create a play of opacities, the pattern was seen throughout on every silhouette.
The color story was a bit less focused, however, with every color from Acid Green & Electric Blue to Blush, Black & Champagne, with numerous stops along the chromatic way, yet it somehow all worked. New too this season, the separate pieces in the collection looked better than normal in a collection usually dominated by lush, heavy handed versions of covetable evening wear. This could be a sign that the designer is finally hitting his stride & rounding out his offerings to truly be a collection rather than attempting to be.
Overall, nearly every piece of Mohapatra’s collection was deservedly noteworthy. It seems that I wasn’t the only one to feel so, as I sat immediately behind Mr. Cunningham of the New York Times, who is known to not raise his camera for a shot unless he deems it worthy of his shutter snap. Mr. Cunningham shot every look save a few…
Designer website: Bibhu.com