As a general rule, women designers design for themselves and their kindred spirits. Clarisse Hieraix takes an inverse approach, separating herself from the customer to look as if through the eyes of a man. Her structured and luxuriously detailed collection embodies a seductive quality with double the effect as she is constantly considering both the customer, and the audience. Citing Claude Montana as a reference in her design tendencies, Hiraix has the same level of control over the structure of a dress or bouffant pant as she does her divine outerwear. One of the most impressive example of her savoir-faire was a full red coat assembled in panels that broke down the proportion into a beautifully designed series of lines and dimension.
Starting with a stock pile of design ideas, Heiraix will design several collections together and then break them down into groups that become individual collections over time. The common thread that runs through is what provides her foundation and marker for growth. This long-term relationship with each garment was visible in the laboriously perfected tailoring, like in a long satin skirt whose built out hips folded in on themselves over and over again while maintaining a perfect symmetry.
Noteworthy were the accessories that engaged with the garments in a symbiotic way. The closure, creatively developed in the shape of the logo, created a substantial base for the coral, diamonds, rubies, and Tahitian pearls that seemed to have grown naturally onto the antiqued silver surface. Various chains of silver created long strands that hung down the back, or tangled closely around the neck. And one elegant lace collar stood close and high on the neck, with strands of glossy black pearls draping nonchalantly over the shoulder of a gorgeous lace gown. The presentation clearly left an impression, as hours later at another show I was overhearing an admirer tell a friend “You must go see Clarisse Hieraix. C’est magnefique.”
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.Clarisse-Hieraix.com