Damir Doma’s Fall 2012 told the story of a ‘modern renaissance woman’. The rich mixture of texture and feminine tones, mixing tweeds and leather, a light devoré with the geometry of a rectangular motif, and soft silks with heavy pendants, showed Doma’s incresing control over the forces of hard and soft. Infused with a sense of history and a strong tie to menswear, Doma pulled the collection into a modern context soaked through with feminine energy. The colors, like out of an untouched makeup compact, were tones meant to compliment and enhance a woman’s natural state. Emphasized in the fluid silk pieces, under the layers and leather and tweed was a sensual undercurrent reaching up to the surface.
Full and masculine shapes contrasted with more snug pieces, all of which had a period influence. From Elizabethan collars to breast plates worn over fur jackets, a historical narrative played out in front of us. Suede harem pants and a full skirt were laced together with wide flat leather laces as if without the presence of machines. Bottoms were gathered and full, some bouffant shorts ended in slim legs fastened up the calf with buttons. Wide silk cummerbunds hung low on the hip over loose, draping layers of silk. The outerwear showed beautiful control in the way the collars fell naturally open or stood naturally closed around the neck and front. Growing into a sophisticated understanding of tailoring and drapery and how his approach to each can enhance and improve the other, Damir Doma turned the beauty of the past into a rich and layered vision for the present.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.damirdoma.com
Designer: Damir Doma
Photos: courtesy of the designer