More structured and dense than Elie Saab’s habitual feminine evening wear, his Fall 2012 collection focused on daywear and a more solid visual story. The opaque silks, tweed and furs were suited for the same woman, but in a different facet of her life. Emphasized by the colors, combining anthracite grey, beige and black with a dignified shade of emerald green, the collection was more resolute and down to earth.
Minimally applied structured draping and folds gave more definition, enticing the fabric to act differently than might naturally tend to. The otherwise flat surfaces were broken up with color-blocked paneling, thick cobweb lace, and a single graphic print. Shift dresses, trousers and trench coats, along with the two-piece suits dominated the silhouettes. Tiered furs, and a long flowing cape broke out the more glamorous side of daywear.
And the designer did not hold back on breaking into evening for a series of evening pieces in matte sequins and Swarovski embroidery. Architectural paneling in the sequined pieces made the body appear surreally tall and slender, curving over at the top exaggerating the length of the leg and the curve of the hip. The densely embroidered paillettes created an almost liquid surface, while the more segmented and smaller motifs still followed a gridded regularity. A more urban pragmatism compared to the fantastical themes of the past. Confident lines and feminine flair were still strongly apparent in Saab’s development this season, but the delicacy hardened into something more distinctive and tangible. A welcome evolution in the story of Saab’s work.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer: Elie Saab
Designer website: www.eliesaab.com