Taking his inspiration from the shapes, textures and symbolism of armor, Christophe Josse was about protecting and revealing. The models were donned with a full rounded bob, medieval like the armor that inspired their clothes. Maybe Joan of Arc was somewhere in the spirit of these women whose modern disguise was inspired by the garments of protection. The seaming, the textures, and the silhouettes evoked his fascination with the intricacy and embellishment of the knight’s protective suits.
Opening and closing with looks of solid white, a dominant palette of silver and black set a somber tone for the show. From a glistening python skin to iridescent silks, the shine of polished armor was imitated through different textures with a modern sensibility. With seams around the shoulders, back, and chest that followed the ergonomic lines of the original constructions, the body underneath was suggested without being overtly revealing. The variation of proportions and silhouettes indicated his diverse interpretations of the armor. Where the show began with shorter proportions and body conscious seaming, the transition into color and drapery gave way to a kind of regal feeling of victory. Long flowing gowns with heavy neckpieces or heavy harnesses to anchor them on the shoulders were like capes flying and flags waving proudly in the wind.
Finally, the lights dimmed and came back on as a white wedding gown took the runway. The model, wearing a bright red feather headpiece, was like the champion night taking his celebratory lap around the stadium. In this case, she was symbolic of a winning season for Christophe Josse.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer: Christophe Josse
Designer website: www.christophejosse.com