With a principal drive and direction of layering, Starkweather by Lee Anderson, it’s founder and creative director, presented it’s 3rd season at Paris Fashion Week. The collection’s main focus is always how to resolve the problem of protecting oneself against the elements, whether it is the sun and wind of the warmer seasons or the bleak and frost of the colder seasons, without compromising comfort or fashion.
In a small and focused presentation Ms. Anderson continued with her collection’s DNA silhouettes and constructions. She uses soft round and curved seams, unfinished edges, and minimal linings to enable the fabric to fall in it’s most relaxed and least restricted manner. This also allows for a more comfortable fit when layering her various items from head/neckwear accessories and vests, to jackets and coats. Her signature piece, the “Crux”, which essentially means heart or nucleus, is the perfect word to describe her unique head/neckwear accessory item, since at the central point it brings everything together, and in a sense finishes off a look.
Inspired by a multi-color striped wool fabric that set the tone for a new and darker color palette of rich caramel, deep burgundy, and vibrant saffron, Ms. Anderson elevated the collection with an introduction of luxurious rabbit fur, and a soft elegant printed chiffon. A few interesting details were the snap in or snap away pieces that closed off a neckline or added length to a coat. Her designs are not conventional sportswear pieces, and the influences of nature are seen in every one of her garment’s lines, forms, and structures.
With private clients in both Paris and Chicago, and Ikram selling her line in the States (also in Chicago), this young designer is making waves with her new approach to outerwear, and rejuvenating the entire process of wrapping oneself and bundling up.
- Elise Goldberg Santiago