As we sit through the seemingly endless torrent of fashion hurled down the runways each season during the conveyor belts (aka: Fashion Runways) known as various “Fashion Weeks”, sometime around day 3 of each week, we are usually struggling amongst our staff to make sense of it all. Every line seems to blur into the next with none of it making much of a case for even existing any longer. If you were taken in blindfolded to a show, unblinded on the first look out & not told what show you were watching, even the most seasoned of editors would be hard pressed to identify the designer they were watching by the last look. This was not the case in the past.
I remember the times in the not so distant past when this was not the case. You knew by look 3 whose show you were watching. Armani looked like Armani, Comme des Garçons actually stood for something, & new designers didn’t dare launch unless they had something new to say & some new visual perspective to push forward. Today, it seems, we attend Fashion Week to see what will be on Zara’s racks next week (or, what seems more like what was on Zara’s racks last week). Sad really. It all looks the same. This could be the reason why, when walking the streets of New York, it’s nearly impossible to find a well-dressed person. Not a person who is dressed well, but to find a well dressed person. There is a difference.
A new brand launched literally a month ago, Trademarket ™, has captured the ennui stated above to a stitched perfection. A compilation of motifs can be found on jackets, t-shirts, “dress” shirts, & a few accessories that all seem to be borrowed from other brands, but were altered enough to be referential & not procured. But is referencing a reference copying? At what point does copying a copy make it no longer a copy? Ask any designer on the runways today… they have obviously thought about it as most are doing it as we speak… as they are sitting in their studios sketching up their concoctions they are going to throw down the runways in February.
Trademarket ™ hails from Spain, ironically, and is the brainchild of a designer of considerable pedigree. The designer’s experience ranges from the runway to a specialty retailer, to an upscale department store, to the very mecca of creative “procurement”. When asked about the collection & what it stands for, the designer is hard pressed to put it all into a concise statement, which is normally a point of criticism by yours truly when interviewing a designer, because in the case of this collection, it’s almost better to not be concise, as Trademarket ™ stands for more than one thing, is the genesis of more than one point of view (rather more of a collective of points of view), & most likely will continue to transition within a season, as the delivery schedule seems to be a bit fluid as well. The only point for certain that the designer makes about the collection is clearly stated in the description on the brand’s Instagram account: ”This is NOT a FUCKING “Streetwear Brand”!” Ok, then…
So, if you are looking for a gender fluid, inspiration free, social commentary laden, all-one-size (mostly), European brand that references literally every other runway fave, Trademarket ™ is for you…. & it seems many others, as there are already some sold out pieces on the site, which has literally been up for like 25 seconds. Get it while you can… this line is going somewhere… it’s just a matter of time… I have my eyes on the “Fashion Diet” T-shirt & the “Dress Shirt” Dress Shirt.
-R. Scott French
Designer Website: www.trademarketwebsite.com
Follow Trademarket ™: Instagram