Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp graduate Glenn Martens chose a boat in the Seine River for his stage as he showed the Spring 2017 collection for Y/Project, the edgy, under the radar collection that never disappoints.
Inspired by a strange mix of references – pirates, island vibes, lock stock & two smoking barrels, & Las Vegas Parano… – the collection was just as strange a mix of ideas as that list implies. A bit of this, a bit of that, a dark, a light, a shiny texture, a dull… it was literally more a melange than a collection. Yet, it all seemed to work. It will be interesting to see what pieces make it past the pen of the buyers. I suspect that while the collection made immense sense for the runway, it would have to be seriously tamed to find a home on a retail shelf near you. Regardless, the giant, oversized, voluminous sleeves, cuffs, trouser legs, sweaters, etc. made some of the more intriguing statements of the season.
While it would be nearly impossible to view the collection without thinking of David Byrne‘s giant suits from “Stop Making Sense“, it was refreshing to see a designer actually pushing the envelope forward in some manner. And push Mr. Martens did. Firmly.
The real story of the season was to be found in the trousers & sweaters, both of which were shown in numerous incarnations. The moire track pants & tuxedo trousers were by and large the most noteworthy in the latter, with countless versions of note in the former. A serious mis-step was seen, however, in the plunging front waistbands of some of the trouser, especially when styled without underwear beneath. This is not a look that anyone could possible find flattering.
-R. Scott French
Designer Website: www.yproject.fr
Designer Publicist: Ritual Projects