In a presentation worthy of any 50s heroine and any modern woman who embodies that same elegance, Jiki’s Fall collection made its debut in Paris. Founded in Monaco in 1984, Jiki was revived in 2008 by Théodore Giorgi of Tefilex Group. In September of last year, he appointed designer Mehdi Soussane Artistic Director. Soussane’s past experience in couture houses such as Givenchy and Christian Lacroix give him ties to the Parisian world of couture, preempting the move to present the collection for the first time in Paris. The day to evening collection was highly formal, with an after 5 feeling even in the tailored separates. Highly structured in shape and detail, the jackets and dresses cinched the waist with a 50s flair, a nod to the Hitchcockian heroine muse.
In motif and detailing, Soussane let the forms of water, fluid and frozen, inform the embroideries and the rippling drapes of silk, and the angled seaming and edges that defined the duality of the shapes. The embroidery, in thread and chain and beads, resembled the glimmering surface of a river slowing from its source. Finding harmony in the opposing states of water, he also balanced the covered and uncovered styles. One navy silk gown draped fluidly from the back and the front to meet under the arm and then fall straight hugging the body over the hips to the floor. While a more demure but just as elegant full knee length skirt was matched with fitted jacket boasting an embroidered lapel that set a sparkling frame for the rock crystal necklace worn high on the neck. Mehdi Soussane aims to please, and Jiki is sure to be on the radar for Parisians looking for the most luxurious options in ready to wear.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.jiki.net