Malan Breton continued his commendable streak of showing during NY Fashion Week for Fall 2016, which set him apart from his fellow Project Runway comrades, most of whom, with the notable exception of Leanne Marshall & Christian Siriano, have not been able to muster the organizational fortitude to consistently be a presence beyond the various ‘Runway’ marathons that pop up from time to time on cable TV. However, unlike his fellow alum mentioned above, Mr. Breton hasn’t seemed to aesthetically progress. In fact, he seems to have regressed, as this collection was in a word (or two)… a mess.
That descriptive is made especially regretful in that the collection was actually well executed in fit, demonstrating considerable skill on the part of the creator. In fact, in the past, Mr. Breton’s collections have been beautifully executed both technically & aesthetically, causing us to label him “one to watch”, a moniker we don’t bestow often or lightly. As I write this review, my mind goes back to several collections he showed in his Bryant Park days that truly were stunners… what happened?
As one who attends a lot of shows, has designed collections for both men & women, & currently produces shows for NY Fashion Week, I can tell you the first recommendation is to learn to edit. This collection was close to 70 looks, which is more extensive than even the most celebrated of European houses, including even Pierre Cardin, who is notoriously bad at editing his shows to manageable lengths. Celebrity stylist Montgomery Frazier was credited as the stylist in the notes, so the blame on this point is clearly able to be shared. As evidence of the need for editing, I offer the 4 Bubble Gum Pink silk shantung jacquard men’s suits that were shown. Arguably, no men’s collection needs even a single Pink silk suit, but 4… seriously. In the edit, Mr. Breton needs to find his collection’s DNA. Is he dressy, is he casual, is he formal, is he sporty? Who knows from what was shown, where sharply tailored & well proportioned suits & evening gowns were shown along side puff jackets reminiscent of Moncler & shaggy, over-sized sweaters that were right from the 80′s rack of the local vintage stores. Enough said…
We hope he gets it together & returns to his days when he began on his own. He had a wonderful voice & I for one would welcome a return to what made him… him.
Designer website: www.malanbreton.com