I’m always loath to compare the collection one designer does on behalf of such a lofty house as Perry Ellis, as the legacy of such an iconic name is one that is nearly impossible to follow. However, in the case of the effort put forward for Spring 2016 by Creative Director Michael Maccari, I’m making the exception, as I believe that this is the first effort for the label since Mr. Ellis’ himself passed that I believe the namesake himself would feel was up to his level of mastery. Bravo!
My proclamation is made with such joy as the label has been languishing in mediocrity for so long. My hope was temporarily renewed by the announcement of Duckie Brown as the creative force, but alas, hopes were dashed, as the expectations were somehow never truly realized. Made doubly sad by the fact that I’m literally obsessed with Duckie Brown. Following Cox & Silver’s departure, I feared the label might actually become nothing more than a memory of what it once was, or worse, a licensing vehicle, which would undoubtedly lead to eventual obscurity. Enter Mr. Maccari (& team)!
The house is back. All the essential DNA was back. Sharply cut, but somehow relaxed suiting, rooted strongly in Khaki, an understated ease of presence that, along with Mr. Ellis’ contemporary Calvin Klein, defined the very definition of American sportwear, just enough print to create interest, a dash of color to offset the neutrals, in this case Mustard, Indigo, & Brick Red, & on & on I could go…
Refreshing too, & deserving of separate mention, is the considerable presence of knitwear in every conceivable weight & detail – from sheer tissue knits, to heavier options for a cool Spring evening, from stripes & slubby novelty yarns to clean, sleek, everyday options. Another Perry Ellis hallmark checked.
Now, if the company can see clear to elevate the quality of production to complement the quality of design, a new dawn may just be on the horizon for the label…
Designer website: www.perryellis.com
Designer Pubicity: LaForce & Stevens