In its 8th season, Chapter, the brainchild of Costa Mesa, CA based design collective under the creative direction of Devin Carlson, showed yet another gender bending collection of mixed silhouette menswear that featured a twist of sorts… two real live women! In recent men’s weeks, it was up to the viewer to figure out if the model was actually male or female, having to rely on a hair here, a shadow there, a hint of anatomy perhaps over there to discern, but this season, the men seem to be emerging once again from the shadows of pure androgyny & thankfully settling somewhere left of center, but not far… yet.
Chapter, inspired by the architectural lines of the modern cities intersected with the free form flow of humanity itself, crossed yet again by Baz Luhrmann‘s classic film Romeo + Juliet, demonstrated what a collection can look like when free design is allowed to rule, yet took into account one central factor… most men still don’t want to dress like women. The result was a delightful melange of silhouettes that played heavily with proportion, especially in the trouser shapes which ranged from dropped crotch pegs to stovepipe Zoot Suit legs to cropped, high-waisted slims. However, the collection didn’t look scattershot. On the contrary.
Colors were decidedly dark for the season, but were punched at times with a Cream, or a Mustard, or a Red to add a bit of levity. While the stated name of the collection was “DISCORD”, from what we saw, there was no such conflict evident. Instead, Chapter seemed like it’s name implied, a chapter in a full book still being written, but we’re hooked enough to read on…
-R. Scott French
Designer Site: www.JoinChapter.com
Designer Publicity: Raluca State