NY Based, Swiss designer Veronika Brusa of BERENIK wowed once again this season with her latest fashion “stunt”, this time taking place in her cavernous store in the SoHo district of Manhattan. The presentation featured 103 models, some of whom were “real” models & the balance modern dancers, all clad in her Spring 2018 collection, but gyrating, rolling, slinking about the space while the models stood still like human mannequins allowing the overall effect to be one simultaneously surreal & otherworldly, yet organic & accessible.
The models began at some other location than the store & proceeded to ceremoniously mark in formation by the legions of fashion well-wishers lined up outside the store to the corner of Lafayette & then down nearly to Grand Street. As the models (& dancers) entered the store in complete silence, they took their places, the music began & so did their performance – moving about the space in some practiced, highly choreographed manner while the audience circulated in the opposite direction to the flow of the collection.
Brusa’s inspiration for the season was the work of artist, Marcin Gajewski, who makes warrior-like masks from Duplo Bricks (the close cousin of the much more common Legos we all grew up with here in America). The inspiration could be found literally in some of the screen prints that were placed in predictable positions on several t-shirts & sweatshirts, as well as less literally in some of the pieced leggings & swim top ensembles that were seamed to suggest the subtle edge patterns of the interlocking blocks themselves. Regardless, the overall collection, while not being too far removed from the designer’s previous collections of late, was still pleasing in total & clearly communicated the message of a tribal unity that Brusa seemingly proposes exists in the modern era of fashion in which we all partake.
There is clearly a “BERENIK” DNA taking shape over the last few seasons we’ve been observing this collection – that being one of androgynous, body forgiving, boxy shapes in moody color stories that transcend seasons & ignore trends. Is this from Spring 2018, Fall 2017, or a sample for Fall 2018? It doesn’t seem to matter to the designer or her hoards of fans that flock to her shows like worker bees to their hive.
While it’s true, the 103 models was overkill & proved the task of taking in each piece nearly impossible, I don’t believe this matters to this designer. She is clearly in love with the performance aspects of the show as much as she is with the output of her design room. BERENIK needs to be experienced to be appreciated & judging from the growing crowds that have been building over the last few seasons (this season nearly a thousand strong), there are many who have gotten a taste & are coming back for more, as well a countless others who have heard & are joining the fashionable bandwagon & beating a path to 419 Broome Street to take part in what the designer clearly enjoys as much as they do… a fashion performance that redefines the way fashion week works. Brusa could be found standing at the front of the experience throughout the entire event, blending in with the crowd as a participant. Can you ever imagine Raf, or Giorgio, or Ralph, or Donna ever doing the same? It’s clear that something is going on at BERENIK & a growing fan base is loving it…
Designer Website: www.berenik.ch
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Publicity Contact: The Bromley Group