Former Galliano protege Hiuman Chau broke out on her own in 2014 with her namesake collection HIUMAN. Since, she’s been working under the Chinese collective ICY Global Designer Platform. Spring 2020 marks her NYFW debut & the launch of her Women’s collection. The collection, inspired by the natural surroundings encountered during Chau’s travels, as well as traditional Oriental aesthetics & finally the spirit of Chinese literati paintings.
Regardless of the inspiration, HIUMAN is a collection that is grounded in modernity & practicality, making it a perfect choice for today’s fashionable consumer who finds his or herself in the office one hour, on a plane the next & walking into a lunch friends only a few hours later. These are runway worthy creations for certain, yet Chau didn’t fall prey to the pitfalls all to common with designers of her ilk, where the collection shown is so esoteric rendering it unable to be related to by the ultimate consumer.
For format of this show was a grouping of capsule collections, so any criticisms of the collection for not being complete are unwarranted, for I’m certain if the designer was permitted the 40 or so looks like a solo showing, the ensembles would be fully developed the course, however, given the 12 or so walks permitted, Hiuman was a respectable showing which balanced the editorial (like the opening looks in all Cream & the Mint Green knotted “dress”, or perhaps more properly described “over-piece”) with the ultimately wearable suits, skirts & dresses that made up the balance.
I for one hope to get to see more from HIUMAN in future seasons, as it is clear in only these few ensembles that there is more in Chau’s arsenal that deserves to be seen. Great job!
-R. Scott French
Photos: Elvia Gobbo Photography