Jeremy Scott was up to his old tricks for Fall 2016… therein lies the joy & therein lies the problem. While his shows are always a joy to attend with a raucous runway energy at play, one can’t help but wonder, as countless others have over the years… is there something else beyond this single note that this considerable talent has up his sleeve? I’m beginning to conclude not, but will reserve final judgment a bit longer.
I’ve been watching Jeremy since his college days. In fact, I was his Senior Design Critic as he was graduating from Pratt. I’ve witnessed first hand the brilliance that is possible in his imaginary design world &, trust me, it truly is a fantastical place. But it seems of late he’s fallen into a sort of stasis. His collections are colorful, well executed & truly fun, but do they push fashion forward? Others may feel differently, but I must say not.
On the fashion front, the high points could all be found in the men’s pieces, which sadly were under represented with only a few looks shown. Of those that were, the standouts were his inventive takes on bombers. Whimsical prints with contrast sleeves evoked memories of high school varsity jackets, but were clearly meant for the runways more than the hallways when paired, as Scott did, with metallic Aqua jeans or leopard print bottoms with tuxedo stripes up the inseam. Other men’s pieces of note were the sweaters shown for men. Most memorable was the Purple crewneck emblazoned with beauty parlor accoutrement such as hairspray, brushes, & the like. Pair that piece with Black & White pony print jeans & a Hot Pink bag & you get the full picture. The rest of the collection ultimately proves forgettable.
Most designers, when given the type of appointment that Mr. Scott has been given in Europe of late, use the moment to truly step up the output of their signature collections & truly start pushing the boundaries to solidify their vision in an extreme manner version of themselves. Jeremy Scott has chosen to go to the center, opting instead to do hyper colored versions of the Gap. Is this what he considers his comfort zone? We hope not & want more… not more of what he just showed… more of the Jeremy Scott of old.
Designer Website: www.jeremyscott.com
Photography: Elvia Gobbo