Design duo Jaxon Yang & Nina Cuso presented their first collection on the runways at Chelsea’s Pier 59 during NYFW Fall 2018 Collections Week. The collection, more of a capsule than a full fledged “collection” pushed forward some interesting ideas for sure – knotted creations that looked at once artsy-craftsy & haute couture, draped leather one shoulder dresses & tops, & some really inventive takes on classic white, dresses & blazer – but then they took a dip in the waters of menswear. Yikes!
The Oxblood, Crimson Red, Black, Navy & White palette was controlled & classic, yet never once seemed derivative & mundane. Even when some of the pieces evoked references to the past (Gianni Versace was clearly an influence as was early Helmut Lang (the “real” Helmut Lang!)), it never looked to be copied in any way, but rather paid inspirational tribute to these obvious influences in a touching respectful manner. Each color was balanced throughout the women’s side of the collection & was merchandised to a proverbial “t”.
It’s always exciting to see a new designer on the calendar & we make every effort to cover these names, as the next star(s) may just be lurking behind the backdrop of the next runway show on the calendar. While we were not disappointed in this collection, we were left wishing for a slightly sharper vision to be put forth. Design duos can work & flourish – Proenza Schouler, Cushnie et Ochs, Nicholas K all come to immediate mind – it’s certainly one path to success. The one thing they all have in common is a dual vision that presents itself as singular, laser sharp & crystal clear. We believe that JXY & Cuso have the elements fir success somewhere in their collective psyche, but they need to find what is working, focus & develop it over time. It’s also clear to us that the formula for success will not be found on male side of the runway… The duo should have stuck to the women’s collection, as they clearly understand this genre & asserted themselves as a company with a voice.
Looking forward to seeing Spring 2019!
-R. Scott French
Designer Website: www.jaxonwang.com
Follow JXY & Cuso: Instagram
Images by Geremy Dubensky