What do we do if we had a fly’s life, only 24 hours to live? That’s the question Berlin based designer Marcel Ostertag posed this season as he designed his Spring 2018 runway collection. Apparently, “flies” in Berlin wear voluminously proportioned dresses, flowing palazzo pants, fringe, Copper sequined suits, & some of the best takes on trench coats this observer has ever seen!
Ostertag is a bit of a newcomer to the US market, having only shown a few seasons prior. We were in the audience last season, what we believe to be his debut, & were mesmerized by his simple, yet inventive updates on classic ladylike fare. Easy pants & blouses with just the right proportions. Dresses that were forgiving yet fashionable giving them merit to the entire fashion market. Coats that were covetable on every level… fabrication, color, & silhouette. Seems that Fall 2017 was not an aberration, but rather the norm for this formidable talent.
Spring 2018 included some of the same fashionable tricks that we are willing to say may just define the DNA of this house. The separates were memorable in concert with one another, but would seamlessly marry with the well-dressed woman’s current wardrobe giving an always welcome update, both in the career & dressy ends of the scale. The dresses… where to we begin? Ostertag sent some of the best dresses witnessed in several seasons down the runway. Volume was the word for most of them, but his were inventively controlled via a series of drawstrings at the waist, the hems, the sleeves, the necklines, or some combination thereof. The results were divine. The Cream chiffon number with Copper lurex pinstripes & Mocha fringed hem evening dress & the Navy & White striped eyelet embroidered day dress that came out 3rd were the most notable of these pieces.
The coats, however… yes coats for Spring, were every bit as memorable as the dresses. Don’t think simply coats, however, think coats as dresses, coats as evening gowns, & yes, a few coats as coats. The most inventive of all had to be the muted Emerald jewel-tone evening gown with a double-breasted front closure that went to the floor, had a short train & the season’s trademark cut-out elbow sleeves (a detail that was seen throughout the collection).
There’s so much to say about this collection, but I don’t have room for a book, so I’ll point out one more element… the prints. Ostertag had several prints custom printed for Spring 2018. The standout had to be a print that on first glance looked like a faceted jewel, but upon closer inspection, revealed the pattern to be flies in a precisely choreographed arrangement. The thematic reference was obvious, but the innate beauty of these creatures that most people find a nuisances referenced far more. This one print made it clear to even the most jaded, superficial fashion observer that this designer is a gem, one that sees far beyond the superficial, can find beauty where most only find annoyance & deserves to be watched, followed & most importantly… worn.
Designer Website: www.marcelostertag.com
Photos: Elvia Gobbo