Central Saint Martins grad Vicky Zhang made her NYFW debut in Moynihan Station with a triumphant showing that had her legions of fans cheering. Each model was accompanied by a children’s counterpart look or two. The ensembles came out in little groupings two & three in number in what seemed to be an almost randomly timed choreography. One couldn’t help but think back to Michael Kors’ early shows where he made such random firing of the models’ walks a near trademark.
The fabrications consisted of every conceivable weave ever fabricated in silk. By the very nature of the fiber, the bulk of the ensembles had a dressy overall appearance, but we were left wondering, precisely where does one wear this collection? With only two or three evening gowns, the bulk of the collection laid somewhere on the sporty side than not, but the fabrications communicated otherwise.
Even more confusing than the intended function, was the appropriateness of the children’s ensembles. The low cut necklines on the girls looks & the unbuttoned boys tops… was the designer attempting “sexy”? We hope not, but several around us were asking the same question. The affect was sort of creepy & odd & left us a bit uncomfortable.
On a positive note, the finale walk was one of the most joyous & exuberant we’ve ever witnessed. Every child who had walked the show earlier flooded the runway & ran out en masse to towards the photographers. The audience was all buoyed to exaltation & the cameras were eating it up! As Ms. Zhang took her bow, the cheers were audible over the soundtrack, so it seems that my misunderstanding the overall message of the season placed me solidly in the minority. Ms. Zhang apparently knows her audience. Kudos!
-R. Scott French
Designer Website: www.yuxiaozhang.com
Images: Elvia Gobbo