“If you give people nothingness, they can ponder what can be achieved from that nothingness,” says Japanese minimalist architect Tadao Ando. Thus the inspiration for the Deveaux Spring 2018 collection was summed up. The design team of Matt Breen, Patrick Doss & Andrea Tsao took this quote to heart & nearly delivered just that… nothingness.
The collection, when viewed closer, was more than immediately meets the eye, but the danger is that the average person, or the editor sitting in the room at a runway show, may not get the chance to know the collection for more than immediately meets the eye.
This collection, the 4th for the label during the NYFW:Men’s show period, plays with blocks of colors (or blocks of lack of color, as the entire palette consisted of Black, White, Gray, Beige & a muted Olive) to create the volumes of the collection, thus defining silhouette. The preference was a voluminous top over a slim bottom, which has been the norm of the decade thus far. This silhouette choice places heavy emphasis on jackets & outerwear & those were indeed the highlight pieces for Spring 2018. Oversized car coats & A-line dusters in a variety of fabrics were seen in countless looks for both the men’s & the women’s looks shown to create an overall breezy, fluid feel to the show.
The label is definitely a work in progress as mentioned above, Spring 2018 is only the 4th collection to be shown. From this observer’s viewpoint, the team would be well advised to pump up the volume a bit or risk being forgotten about in the runway game as the average fashion fan is exposed to so many looks in the space of so little time during show week that the ones that stand out the most are the one that are the most visually stimulating. Save the thoughtful, heady details for the showroom, or do them in a more pronounced way to be considered a serious player.
This collection is beautiful, but I fear it will not be realized by those whose job it is to spread the word… those in attendance at the show this week.
-R. Scott French
Designer Website: www.deveauxnewyork.com
Publicity Contact: L.E.R. Public Relations