Hong Kong based custom tailor house Ascot Chang is exploring the world, both High & Low, for Fall 2012. Their collection was divided into two stories for the season, one being inspired by Mountain Exploration & the other by Deep Sea Exploration. Regardless of where they were exploring, the results were rich, detailed, storied & saturated in coloration.
Mountain Exploration is predictably Brown & Earthen in tone set off by the moody Blacks & Grays that can be found in the rocky mesas & jagged crags of the peaks themselves. Butter soft corduroys, which subtly mimic the peaks & valley of the mountains & valleys, are further complemented by the luxurious hand of fine gauge cashmere & woolen knits to create a cozy statement that is not normally associated with the bespoke tailored aesthetic. These are dress clothes that allow the gentlemen who wear them to transition seamlessly from city to country without the normally requisite wardrobe change.
When the collection turns to the Sea, the colors are the main tack, with this palette being a no less predictable Blue based one, however, newness is added in by using Navy as the dark in places traditionally reserved for Black. Examples include a super Dark Navy velvet Smoking Jacket & a Charcoal Gray suit that upon closer inspection is flecked with undertones of Navy to add a breath of freshness to the Ascot Chang flannel of countless seasons past.
The entire collection makes ample use of pattern in windowpanes, fresh mid-scale tartans & intricately striped rep ties in combinations that will make the traditionalists amongst their audience bristle with fashion discomfort, but the younger end of their market & the young executive being introduced to the label will undoubtedly embrace the more extreme looks with vigor. Take out the plaid shirt & add an Ascot Chang custom white shirt in place of the plaid & the traditional gentleman will have plenty to love. This is the genius of the collection’s creative consultant, Michael Macko its best. Macko possesses a deep knowledge contemporary fashion as well as a rich respect of the traditional. The Ascot Chang Fall Winter 2012 collection embodies both in a textbook display of what the bespoke custom market needs to remain relevant in today’s culture where fashion is anybody’s game to win.
Truly couture quality custom shirts can be delivered in 3 to 4 weeks with a suit taking a mere 5 to 6 weeks & prices ranging from $200 to $1,500 for the former & $2,750 & up for the later. In the U.S. there are two retail locations where the Ready to Wear range is available for immediate purchase or tailors are on hand for custom measured orders in Beverly Hills @ 9551 Wilshire Boulevard or in New York @ 110 Central Park South.