As Alexandre Plokhov said in the film “Seamless”, “it should take 15 minutes to notice if a gentleman is well-dressed.” His theory may hold true in most cases, but his theory falls apart if the gentleman is dressed in Hardy Amies, as it will likely only take a few seconds…
Sir Hardy Amies was an authority on British menswear, understanding the rules of dressing yet maintaining a sharp eye on modernity & the city dweller around him. Tailoring is at the foundation of the collection, supported by lightweight outerwear, loose knits & casual shirting accompanied by English accessories.
Drawing heavily on its Savile Row roots, the Spring/Summer 2014 collection presents the modern man with a full range of choices that will give him every bit of the fashion saavy of the modern London fashion scene, but available right here on the other side of the Atlantic.
Mehmet Ali, the collection’s Design Director was on hand recently in his TriBeCa show room in Lower Manhattan for a collection meet & greet of sorts. He spoke of the collection’s heritage, but was careful to point out that while the Hardy Amies man understands the tradition of the brand, he doesn’t live frozen in time. He added, “we are as much inspired by this [heritage] as by influences from the constant change & diversity in London itself.”
Ali drew on some Saul Bass references unearthed in the Hardy Amies archives for the Spring/Summer 2014 range. The season’s designs & colour palette are influenced by Bass’ film artwork from the 1950’s including ‘The Man With The Golden Arm’ & the opening sequence for Hitchcock’s ‘Psycho’. The latter is directly translated into summer striped fabrics developed exclusively by British mill William Bliss which appear on unstructured summer jackets as well as holdalls & totes by Chapman, an English bag company.
Further referencing Bass & the 50s graphic design, colour blocking is mixed with bold or broken lines. In true Hardy Amies style, formal wear was mixed into the collection in unexpected ways for a touch of whimsy. A grey check single-breasted suit is accompanied by a contrast gingham shirt & casual outerwear, & an evening jacket is shown with a subtle check trouser.
Hardy Amies devotees will recognize the signature colour combination of French Navy & Bone Gray being used throughout the collection with accents of Bright Red, & Orange. Fabrics include basket weave hopsacks & high twist tropical weaves in a variety of tailored silhouettes. Cotton outerwear & chinos are garment dyed & Pima cottons & wool linen silk blends are included within both knits & tailored pieces.
Accessories include shoes made in Northampton, England by Alfred Sargent & a newly commissioned collection of canvas based formal shoes are made by Grenson. Ties & pocket squares include a replication of the ‘HA’ monogram developed by the season’s muse, Bass himself.
Designer Website: www.hardyamies.com
Publicity: Vocal NYC
Where to buy: Mr. Porter & Bloomingdales