Channeling the 70s for his Fall 2012 collection, Pascal Millet employed a palette of black and grey wools and tweeds to create a tailored silhouette, with moments of slouchy-ness translated through draped silks and knits tied at the waist like luxurious robes. Fringe shawls and wrap skirts, draped one shoulder maxi dresses, and a bell bottomed trouser were the more obvious nods to the era. And the keyhole neckline, fitted bodices and proportions of the waist to skirt, the majority of which were below the knee, spoke to a conservative approach through which Millet found creative ways to be sexy without revealing too much. One example was a set in panel of a gown that wrapped around the hip like a loosely tied sash and followed the length of the dress to the floor past the slit that only opened to just above the knee.
The outerwear layers, consistently a bit more voluminous through the body than the under layers of jackets and dresses tailored to fit, had feminine finishes likes a frayed ruffle trimming the placket and hem and soft full sleeves that relaxed the silhouette. In contrast to the more angular moments, where blazers and hems broke away diagonally to the sides, one print design in pink with a large floral motif added richness to the dry minimal lines.
Since beginning to design under his own name, Millet has found a classical and modern balance with day and eveningwear that ties back to his years of experience designing haute couture. Searching to pare down more than overload with embellishments, this season’s Pascal Millet is subtle and chic.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.PascalMillet.com