Raw unlined leather and Mongolian lamb at Peachoo Datwani and Roy Krejberg’s Fall 2012 show left the materials to speak for themselves. Short fitted jackets zipped into extensions that added length to the ankle. A high neck tunic had zippers up the sides to cover or expose. The same applied to the back of long leather skirts unzipped to walk and add fullness where the top was slim and fitted except for a softly draped ruffle at the front. The same lightness applied to the dress fabrics, with which they created easy, draped pieces in keeping with the show’s softness. The most structure here was in diagonal panels of silk wrapped asymmetrically across the body and hung down the back. One in satin separated into long strips that fluttered out behind framing the open back.
Crochet knit pieces left yarns hanging so the garments were like wild vines, dead and without leaves so all that is left are the spindling stems. This open motif appeared more controlled in glimmering anthracite lace brocade and a beaded harness that hung down the front in an open ironwork design. Unexpected and breathtaking were the fanned feather sculptures worn over the models shoulders that spread fully over, enclosing the head. The amazing wing-like creations gave the show a level of reverie that invigorated the otherwise uninterrupted, long, tall, fluid silhouettes.
Every material they worked with was handled with an expert hand. And crafted by Peachoo and Krejberg into a bold story with an exciting climax.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.peachoo-krejberg.com
Photos courtesy of Olivier Claisse