Beginning on a light note, frayed raw edges finished the khaki dresses, long to the floor, tucked here and there almost accidentally, with heavy white stitching the only decorative element. Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring Summer 2013 collection read like the story of war, from the innocence of fresh recruits through the dark hours, the bloodshed and mourning, the glimmer of hope for rebuilding. Finally slipping back into black, maybe as “normal life,” soft jackets and slip like skirts and dresses, asymmetrically arranging themselves on the body. This is quite literally Yamamoto’s ‘safe place’ where second nature guides his hand, and where his loyal fans can find consistency.
Without pushing any boundaries through the clothes, it felt like the narrative was a focus this season, rather than innovation in design. Yohji’s rate of evolution does not need to be set at full blast; his design world is more sensitive than many European or American designers whose design decisions are largely defined by a theme or inspiration. Yohji’s clothes evolve at their own pace. This may be a reason why some seem to be bored with what they are seeing. But for those who appreciate and accept Yamamoto without demanding he accelerate to keep up with the industry (with a lead foot), I find it hard to believe he could ever disappoint.
- Lee Anderson, Parisian Correspondent
Designer website: www.YohjiYamamoto.co.jp