Volume & proportion were the stories for Guy Laroche as creative director Richard René debuted his latest effort for Winter 2018 at the legendary Parisian Design House. Black, White, Peacock & Gold dominated the color palette with a dash of Metallic Gold used in graphic prints that hinted at a checker/circuit board.
René’s extensive design pedigree was clearly evident in the edgy styling & some of the cuts that hinted at Goth while not so much so as to earn a label, or worse, earn a following. There was just enough of the inspiration to prove edgy rather than thematic. The result was deserving of celebration! The proportion proved at once body conscious & figure forgiving as the cut was deftly done to allow hints at the body that lie beneath, while celebrating the wearer’s natural physique. A theme that has been appearing on the runways of New York for several seasons but has not been making its presence known to those in Europe with nearly as much frequency.
Of all the ensembles that deserve mention, the vignette that left us with the strongest impression was the bold pattern created with both brush strokes of Black on Cream in what appeared to be hand hewn stripes that were strategically broken to give the appearance of being done following garment completion. The effect was one of user customization rather than one of original design intent. Regardless of intent, the result was mesmerizing.
One piece left an indelible impression, however. It was a Black turtleneck dress with an asymmetrical hem worn over Black leggings. The silhouette was cool in & of itself, but the knockout punch was the Gold metallic upper bodice detail that dripped down the body like a wet painting to frame the wearer’s face like an edgy gilt frame of sorts. This cold be one of my favorite looks from several seasons’ worth of Fashion Weeks. Truly brilliant!
Guy Laroche has been a label that seemed past its prime for some time. However, if René continues on the path he is on for Winter 2019, there’s little doubt that some very noteworthy seasons are ahead & this observer is willing to say the house may just be back!
-R. Scott French
Designer Website: www.guylaroche.com