Latino designer Willy Chavarria crossed the ease of athleisure with the edge of the 90′s New York House & Disco club scene to create his Spring 2020 collection that he called both masculine & refined. The silhouette was definitively on the relaxed side that at times referenced the 80′s more than the stated 90′s but the Peruvian cotton knitwear & the soft washed denim served to complement the proportions beautifully. Add to this the color palette that began in the range of washed out “Cali-neons” before evolving into dressy Black to conclude.
Chavarria partnered with jewelry designer Chrishabana once again this season, expanding their ongoing collaboration even further. Leather was added to the mix as wrappings on gold chains & were combined with crystals for added detail, which the designers refer to as a representation of vapid decadence. In contrast, punk elements were introduced through the addition of barbed wire.
Chavarria also collaborated with classic tennis brand K-Swiss for a range of custom shoes for the collection that were described as “90’s California Chicano Tennis Prep”. The approach was described by K-Swiss as having been evolved from what the rich kids in high school wore while playing tennis, to what the Cholos wore with oversized khakis & tall white socks.
While the men’s market for Spring 2020 is solidly resting in the past, Willy Chavarria has moved forward one decade to find it’s references in the 90′s. Chavarria has found a niche in the mix that combines elements of dress with the laid back California attitude that was filled the first time around by the legendary Camp Beverly Hills collection. It seems that like CBH, Chavarria understands the easy vibe of the West Coast & has done a brilliant job of bringing it to the runways of New York for the world to digest.
-R. Scott French
Designer Website: www.willychavarria.com
Photos by Elvia Gobbo