Set to the soundtrack of Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons”, Japanese streetwear collection Vowels debuted their first-ever Spring/Summer 2025 collection as a day-long presentation at the Musée des Arts et Métiers in downtown Paris. Entitled “Shunkashuutou”, Creative Director Yuki Yagi approached the presentation as a site of deconstructed performance, inspired by seasons changing.
True to the theme of the soundtrack, the collection was shown in four different vignettes, one for each season: Summer, Autumn, Winter, Spring. In total, twenty different looks were shown across the four vignettes. Overall set design was done by Nikki Lavollay. The Spring vignette in particular, featured oversized, hand-painted flowers by Margaux Dereume of Tij Flowers.
Throughout the presentation, Japanese prints & textiles were used in abundance, along with shirt prints that Yagi referred to as “classic & clean.” In the words of the Creative Director himself, he set out to “make products that can go well with any outfit you own.” Patchwork, a common design treatment that was seen woven throughout the collection, was created from deadstock fabrics that were interpreted into new garments in collaboration with a Japanese vintage store owner. The overall style of silhouettes were constructed with a relaxed fit while maintaining a dual-gender aesthetic & proportion.
Graphic Tee Shirts, another element that was prevalent in each vignette, were screen-printed with images of historic pottery from Peru, Greece, & Great Britain. Fleece tops that referenced vintage collegiate sweaters & crewnecks lent a young, retro-prepster element. A staple of most menswear collections, Outerwear, proved to be on the whole utilitarian, in Yuki Yagi’s able hands, with some pieces being pumped up via boldly pieced, patchwork floral appliques. Shirting in long & short-sleeve button-downs recall vintage Western & workwear prints, with ‘70s-inspired embroidery sewn onto pockets.
Knitwear was woven with the brands logo symbol. Further nods to classic menswear silhouettes could be found in the range of button-down grandfather cardigans, many which had oversized, contrast front-pockets, while short-sleeve polo shirts & sweater vests further cemented the collection’s commitment to preserving what they refer to as “heritage styles”. Bottoms range from patch worked denim to printed trousers, many with the recurring floral motif print that has been referenced in every vignette in the collection. Accessories range from classic baseball & bucket hats, to logo socks, silk scarves, & utilitarian workwear backpacks & totes.
Given the overwhelmingly accessible design reference points of the Vowels debut collection, Creative Director Yuki Yagi virtually guarantees the Vowels collection to be one that is nearly universally accepted. By pumping up the volume with design details like patchwork, appliqués, & blocking of fabrications, he further cemented Vowels’ position in the fashion landscape as there is little the observer could possibly find objectionable. Given the familiarity of design elements & the novel combinations, it’s this observer’s belief that Vowels has a strong chance of not only succeeding in the crowded fashion landscape, but becoming a true force to be reckoned with.
-R. Scott French
Credits:
Photography: Reto Schmid @retoschmidd
Scenography: Nikki Vollay @nikkilavollay
Stylist: Simonez Wolf @monsieurwolf
Content Production: Kitten Production @kitten_production
Post Production: Sheriff Projects @sheriff.projects
Show Production: Kitty Events @kitty_events
Light Design: Vincent Goubet @vincent_goubet
Casting: Ikki @ikki_casting
