soi. the Japanese fashion house renowned for its understated, feminine fashion statements, made a noteworthy debut at New York Fashion Week in the September Spring Summer 2025 collection show week. Hailing from Tokyo from a small atelier launched in 2022, the brand proved an intellectual exercised more than a bold fashion play, as these are clothes that need to be absorbed through contemplative study to be appreciated. The name means “myself” in French & is built on the philosophy of crafting dresses that embody the wearer’s unique story & identity. The collection, guided by Brand Director Ayana, says it pays homage to traditional couture & is deeply personal & seeks to empower through its designs.
The color palette was one more customarily found on the runways of New York Fashion Week during the bridal shows, mostly constisted of Creams & Ivories with three exceptions being an icy toned Lavender & another similarly moody Celadon gown that had an antique sort of appeal. The designer then sent a Black column dress out topped with an Antique Gold shrug before returning to the Ivory color palette that dominated the overall story.
The haberdashery that Ayana chose to top the majority of her ensembles was every bit as intriguing as the fashions themselves, but in no way did these accessories overpower the main collection. The accessories served to underscore how the soi. Collection truly is about the individual choices of the wearer. She is able to make her own mark on each soi. ensemble without ever feeling overpowered by the dress, nor does the dress ever overpower the wearer’s individual aura. The woman is the star as soi. & as the designer’s notes stated, at soi. it is not just about couture fashion—it’s about wearing one’s own story with grace and confidence.
-Vivian Kelly ( @TheFashionHistorian )
