Bibhu Mohapatra is a designer who has celebrated strong women & employed them as his muses from the beginning, when he debuted his eponymous collection of 21 looks at the fall 2009 NYFW shows. Back then, he created his own muse based on “fashion warrior” Daphne Guinness, merged with ancient Japanese armor, a fascinating blend of hard & soft elements. From the first time he showed, Mohapatra became one of Vogue’s designers to watch.
An important component in his designs is a strong affinity for structure, particularly when it comes to a powerful shoulders, which became noticeably more pronounced in his fall 2019 showing as well as the beautiful handcraft that has distinguished his clothing for over a decade & that is a part of his signature every season.
For fall 2023, his muse was heiress/writer, Nancy Cunard, as she appeared in an arresting black & white photo Man Ray took of her in 1926. In it, she wore stacks of large bangles. Fittingly, the model who opened Mohapatra’s show stepped out to a soundtrack of a reading of Cunard’s “Wheels” poem, donning a regally modest long white dress, accessorized by stacks of large red bangles.
For casual days and running around town was (look 10), a white mini skirt, gray high neck cashmere sweater accessorized by cobalt tights – bright tights & lace tights were seen at many other collections this season at other shows such as at Chanel. For evening there was (Look 20), an elegant white of the shoulder bodycon drop waist top with a long duchesse satin skirt. What really made the look a stand-out was the black velvet portrait neckline that extended into long sleeves. Mohapatra showed his prowess for embellished evening wear as well, most notably (look 29) in a fairy tale princess pale blue off the shoulder gown which may well have been a riff on Disney’s Sleeping Beauty, Arielle’s, iconic pale blue gown.
Mohapatra also tapped into the fall foliage color trend. Burgundy was one of the predominant colors in his palette. Of special note was (look 4), a burgundy pantsuit accessorized with burnt orange top & ochre yellow pashmina scarf as well as (look 9), an ankle length burgundy dress with beautiful floral lace overlay. Also, of note was (look 16), a silver elbow length top with a lace overlay paired with a long burgundy leather skirt that had vine like floral embroidery running down the right side of the garment. He seemed to be on the same wavelength as Hermes’ Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski when it came to these color choices.
If you’re wondering why there were so many leather opera length gloves, (in punchy purple, orange & gold,) Mohapatra was tapped to make the performers’ clothes of the Washington National Opera’s concert, “Come Home”, a tribute to the late Ruth Bader Ginsburg, who was an opera buff. The gloves the performers wore were a nod to one of the Supreme Court justice’s style signature statements.
All in all, Mohapatra this collection demonstrates that while he has always been a strong evening wear designer – one that mothers of the bride looking to make an elegant splash at their son or daughter’s wedding, he is also adept at designing separates & suits for day that women are sure to want to add to their closet.
Designer Website: Bibhu Mohapatra
- Vivian Kelly (@thefashionhistorian)
