Ricardo Tisci’s fall/winter 2021 collection was an about-face & return to www.burberry.com heritage. For fall/winter 2021, Tisci stayed closer to this storied house’s DNA. The collection had a strong Public or Private school vibe depending on if you’re in England or the USA, with staples such as trenches, classic coats & even a varsity letterman jacket that was ripped right from the pages of the yearbook regardless of the year, though with decidedly a more luxurious slant than the ones we all remember from our high school days.
Yes, the influence was outdoors, as was the spring 2021 collection, a puzzling futuristic huntsman collection staged in a “Hunger Games” style outdoor arena. This time however, we were treated to clothes that were a City guy’s take on what he would wear in the great outdoors without straying too far from his sartorial comfort zone. Tisci has clearly spent a lot of time outdoors in the past year; 2020 saw a surge in outdoor activities due to restrictions on indoor entertainments.
The show opened with a classic trench that had interesting pleating in the back, the perfect update to what most Burberry fans have had in their closet for years. This version has a cozy fur lining, making it a viable option for long walks in the country for chilly fall & winter temperatures. Look nine was another highpoint. The beautiful Black cashmere coat had three large Velcro strap closures & a built-in fur collar. For those who want to take a break from Black, there was a sharp Gray version with Maroon detailing on the hem & cuffs.
The accessories also bear a mention. Rather than take the obvious lumberjack/Paul Bunyan route, Tisci showed shoes & boots elegant enough to be worn indoors but tough enough to hike in, fashioned from leather & neoprene. There were also some whimsical wool beanies that resembled the hats court jesters wore in the Middle Ages.
The designer came out for his bow wearing a button down in the house’s iconic Nova Check print. This seemed to be his unspoken acknowledgement that he will be sticking to Burberry’s heritage in collections going forward. A thumbs up for Burberry Men’s latest, for staying true to the brand identity & for presenting just enough of a twist to keep things interesting & fresh.
- Vivian Kelly ( @thefashionhistorian )
