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In @TheFashionHistorian, NYFW, Womenswear, Fashion

Rainbow Glamour: Esé Azénabor Spring/Summer 2027

3 Views September 23, 2026

What better place to have a formal ware show than the iconic 1920’s landmark, the Rainbow Room? Add in the severe clear weather and conditions were perfect for taking photos and video, both inside and on the wrap-around deck. Esé’s Dallas customers dressed in their favorite Esé Azénabor dresses filled 2 sections of the front row, snapping photos of their selections for their spring 2027 wardrobes.

The show notes revealed the theme to be “Electric Garden”. Says Esé, “For spring, I’m obsessed with the vivid, brilliant colors found in exotic flowers, but I wanted to experience them through a futuristic, almost techno filter.”

The show kicked off with an elegant micro-mini skirt and blazer set encrusted in signature Cream pearl and crystal trim, complete with a matching hat that had the ladies from Dallas oohing and ahing. Much of the 44- piece collection was inspired by the blooms of an exotic fantasy garden, rendered as beaded and fabric 3D flowers. A delicate tea-length A-line gown had pink and blue flowers that looked as if they were growing off crystal branch stems. The fantasy element extended to time travel back to the 1980’s when the models walked out in colorful mini poof dresses, reminiscent of Christian Lacroix’s party dresses of that era that Anna Winter helped popularized stateside. Corseted bodices that were visible on the back view of nearly every dress lent a romantic feeling to long fit and flare gowns as did the bows and 3D crystal flowers that were strategically placed on necklines and on belts.

The Salmon Pink strapless ballgown made entirely of tiles checked off the box for the futuristic tone referenced in the show notes. While the embellished crystal bead floral work makes for attention getting gowns for sure, some of the strongest pieces were those that at first glance, had a minimum of embellishment. The semi-sheer high neck gown in pale Aqua channeled the Greek goddesses in Christopher Nolan’s film, The Odyssey. Looking more closely, the shimmer it gave off was from the strapless Silver sequin mini dress underneath and the 3D crystal rose that cinched them together. Asé placed bright Pink beaded rosettes on an electric Yellow pleated tulle sheath that looked like roses climbing their way up a trellis. On closer inspection, the dress had oversize Yellow tulle flowers edged in delicate crystal beading.  The work was so subtle, that at first it appeared as if the dress was simply made from a solid Yellow chiffon.

The show ended with a couture staple, the bride. The designer pulled out all the stops for her finale. The entire gown was beaded with pearls, crystals, and glass beading. A detachable overskirt, peplums and a long train all contributed to the dramatic princess bride gown.

-Vivian Kelly ( @thefashionhistorian )

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