It would be impossible to imagine that fashion will not be changed by the events of the past 18+ months (aka: “The Pandemic”). So, it should come as no surprise that the first live fashion show that took place post pandemic featured a collection of sweatshirts. However, don’t let the word “sweatshirt” define this collection in any sort of traditional sense of the word. Sweatshirts, yes, but not in any regular sense of the word.
The collection shown under the label HVMAN, is the new division of the parent collection, CULT of Individuality, the collection synonymous with the rock n’roll set. The brainchild of CULT creator Ron Poisson, HVMAN is a very different aesthetic. This collection is one of upscale, modern, clean, spare, richly hued garments that will instantly assume the role of wardrobe go-to’s for any wearer lucky enough to find this collection in their wardrobe. These are the sort of garments that those who have become accustomed to being comfortable, cozy & relaxed in their daily wardrobe, will gravitate towards when social interaction becomes the norm once again. Why? Well, the designs shown under the new HVMAN label are designed in a smart, no-nonsense manner, but have a noticeably upscale, fashion edge.
Through graphic manipulations of their bold logo, the collection has elements that hark back to the “FRANKIE SAY RELAX” or “Benetton” rugby shirts that are iconic pieces from the late 80’s. Frankie says “Relax”, but HVMAN says “Chosen to Prevail”, which seems to be the collection tagline. This sort of bold expression of optimism is not only novel, but timely given the aesthetic & emotional zeitgeist which fashion fans find themselves in at the moment. We are all ready for what’s next & to get on with life & despite being forced into physical isolation of late, the HVMAN race is emerging stronger, triumphant & bolder than before. Perhaps I’m waxing a bit poetic here, but I think you get the point…
Add in the serious fashion details on top of the obvious aesthetic gloss & the true beauty of this collection is realized. The opening look of the black jacket with the bold White pyramid was the perfect opening ensemble to set up the script of graphics to come. The fabrications were obviously of the highest quality. Good fabrications are immediately evident to the eye. These garments seem to have substance. Sweatshirts, yes, but common, not in the least!
There were some 20 ensembles shown, without a single look that was anything but deserving of celebration. However, there were a few true standouts. Aside from the opening ensemble of the Black satin jacket with the White pyramid, other looks that come immediately to mind were a Heather Gray hoodie with the season’s verbiage “HVMAN Race, Chosen to Prevail”, a Sage Green jacket with whipstitched yoke detail & a Blush Pink crewneck & short ensemble that could well be one of my favorite colors of the season. In fact, all of the colors of the collection proved memorable – from the basics like Heather Gray & Black to the more moody hues like Sage, Blush, Stone, Mocha & Khaki.
As new collections go, HVMAN is a noteworthy one for certain. Though it may note be immediately evident on first glance, this collection deserves a second look for sure. This collection, if the launch is an indication, is one that not only has a place, it has a future.
- Vivian Kelly @thefashionhistorian